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Interviews

Steven Hitchcock

February 11, 2013

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Mr.Steven Hitchcock, your Curriculum Vitae is quite impressive, learning tailoring at Anderson&Sheppard and now being on your own in Savile Row. For this reason I strongly believe that you are the right person to advise my readers on how to match shoes with suits. Lately I noticed some-very (from my point of view) annoying fashion: snickers and suits. How does a bespoke tailor see the man fashion lately?

Trainers and suit just don’t work together in my book. A well made shoe can finish the look that the bespoke suit starts.

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If you were a young gentleman beginning of the road, how what clothes would you put in the wardrobe for the start?

A young gentleman’s first suit I believe should be a blue or grey single breasted. You can then dress this suit up by wearing colorful shirt ties and maybe a pocket square. You can then build up your wardrobe with a double breasted suit and sport jackets that can be more adventurous in cloth selection.

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And what matching shoes?

I believe in black shoes to wear with dark suits, no brown or tan shoes and differently no bloody pumps. Ox blood shoes to be worn with a brown suit.

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What are the worst mistakes that a gentleman could make in your point of view in terms of outfit?

When a person does not wear a suit a lot and on his twice yearly do over dresses i.e. white dinner suit with a red bow tie.

What is your opinion about “No brown in town” rule in terms of outfit and shoes?

No brown in town? Who cares, I wear brown at lease once a week. I feel it is a color very much under sold and worn. It looks great! Brown suit equal brown or ox blood shoes. This can show that you work for yourself not imploded by someone else.

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Exotic leathers for shoes. When should we say No to them and why?

I personally do not like the look of exotic leathers, but if I did buy them, I would have to be confident that they were ethically harvested.

What is the proper shoe to wear for dinner jacket ? Can we make exemptions?

The correct shoe to wear with dress wear is a patent black shoe a velvet slipper.

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I have seen one of your shining shoes in Rose Callahan blog. How many pairs do you have and what styles?

I have around 6 pairs of bespoke shoes. All made by The London Shoe Maker Paul Davies. 1 ox blood the rest in black leather. I prefer the elastic side slip on shoe. I have a pair Balmoral style black calf shoe with crock uppers. I also have a full brogue and the rest in a design that I and Paul designed with whole cuts straight the leather.

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What shoes do you have in mind for next order?

I am after Paul to make me a new ox blood shoe and a pair of velvet slippers with my initials on. I am working on a brown flannel double breasted suit.

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