In September 2012 I was invited by Alexandru Moise and Alexandru Dragan at the presentation of their Autumn-Winter 2012-13 Collection. They founded Sarto MTM boutique concept in May 2012.
In Romania, the main problem is that many so-called brands claim to be tailors when they actually do not know how to sew a buttonhole. A pleasant surprise was Alex Moise who presented himself in an honest way. The suits are made in Italy in a Made to Measure system; both of them offer advice on the choice of fabrics and style. I myself own a Sarto smoking that I’m very pleased of. Their concept is to promote an affordable MTM suit. Given the emphasis on counseling, as well as the pleasant color mix for the latest collection, I challenged Alex Moise to a short dialogue about male clothing.
If we get out of our little world and travel to Vienna or London, we can notice that suits are not uniforms, that colors and textures are very different. Yet, in Romania, dark colors dominates the whole picture. Why are we so gloomy?
Whether we are in Vienna or London, the whole picture is not quite as colorful as, for example, in Florence. Austrians ,as well as Germans. are a little more conservative, and in London, even young people go to the office dressed formally. They have understood that the way you present yourself shows your respect for yourself and for those whom you meet.
But, anyway, they are more daring than us. The explanation is simple, the Romanians are afraid to try something new because they know that “black matches anything”; in addition, stores provide clothes in basic colors because this is what sells. So we find ourselves in a vicious circle.
We show people that they can go to work dressed formally, that this is what professionals do and thus their business partners will have greater confidence in them. But they also have the option of Friday casual, weekend and evening, when they should also think of their image.
I enjoyed very much your latest collection as it had so many wonderful mixtures both of textures and of colors. Why should we wear colorful clothes?
Well, since you are more or less forced to respect a dress-code at the office, why not be yourself when you go out or spend time with friends if you feel like doing it?!
What would be Alex Moise’s definition of style?
The classic one – it is felt not taught or, like Hardy Amies said once : “A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them”.
Let’s talk a little about fabrics. Can you make a short presentation about what kind of materials you use?
It is a little complicated to tell you about them in a few words. We should write an article exclusively about that. We must begin by saying that Super 100’s up to Super 250’s system concernes wool fineness (the higher the better). The size is given by the thickness of the fiber of which the wool is woven. The unit of measurement is the micron. For example, Super 100’s has up to 18.75 microns and when it goes down at every 10 the thickness of the fiber decreases by 0.5 microns. Now, my recommendation is to choose fabrics between Super 100’s and Super 150’s for everyday use, and superior fabrics for night time or special occasions. Regarding seasons the important thing to keep in mind is the thickness of the fabric. Our recomandation is to make suits for summer from 220 g/mp to 240 g/mp fabrics, suits for all season from 250 g/mp to 300 g/mp fabrics and suits for winter from more than 300g/mp fabrics. What is over 400 g/mp are fabrics suitable for overcoats.
Double breasted suits seem to witness an impressive comeback. Whom do they suit better?
Double breasted suits are classic and almost every man should have one in his wardrobe. I say almost every man because they are to be avoided if you are short and / or full-figure.
Let’s try a creative exercise. Four characters that are different as construction are looking for a suit: Marcel Iures, Andrei Plesu, King Mihai of Romania and me. How do you emphasize our qualities and hide our flaws?
For Marcel Iures, I would choose a casual sand-colored cotton suit that can match well the slightly rebellious nature of an actor who believes strongly in “the bread and polenta made by mothers and grandmothers”. I would pay attention to tailoring which should be modern but not too tight on the body, yet appropriate to his age.
Andrei Plesu – a refined and respected gentleman can wear nothing but a classical dark grey double breasted suit.
King Mihai of Romania – distinction is shown in discreet details, so I know that the outfit will definitely need a burgundy tie. I would suggest a navy blue double breasted suit, with a very discreet Prince of Whales pattern.
Do people know how you look ? 1.90, well proportioned? I would choose a double breasted suit with a modern cut, but not too tight on the body and I would keep the trousers with one fold due your body shape.
The favorite suit in your personal wardrobe….
I think everyone will laugh as it is a very common one: a blue one (lighter than navy blue) which perfectly suits me and which I have been wearing for years. I am also very fond of a navy blue blazer with gold buttons. The Classic!
Your favorite type of shoes…
Braces or belt?
Neither. Perfect fit.
The perfect client?
The one with the right attitude.
If you were to described yourself in three words what would those be…
Persistent, smart and passionate about what I am doing.