In bespoke shoemaking is customer always right?
Difficult to say…Not always, I must say this, but I’m sure everything that the client says is for a reason; my work is to find that reason for which he thinks like this. It’s like to listen to actively, it’s not enough to listen to what he says, I must understand the reason why, how, and find the answers to solve a possible big question that initially didn’t seem like this.
The same costumer could seek a different goal, different shoes in order to adapt the personal Bespoke Service that every single shoemaker is offering. Every pair of bespoke shoes is unique for the client, and these are made in different times of his life. He could change some ideas and he could seek a different experience.
Which other shoemakers do you like?
There are many who are totally anonymous as Landry Lacour says, one of the best artist of patina and good friend of mine. But I love the creations of Ricardo Freccia Bestetti, the great work of total shoemakers like Anthony Delos or Dimitri Gomez, or the purity and austerity of Masaru Okuyama. But in Barcelona there is one of the greatest artist shoemakers in the world: Norman Vilalta, I admire his capabilities and his sensitivity in very different ways about his own creative and unique style.
What do you enjoy most about working as a young shoemaker and how would you describe a typical day?
When I sit in front of the bench and tools, my heart is transformed, and I forget absolutely everything, I even forget to eat. The hard and intense work gratified me, as I am gratified by the support received from my family, my girlfriend, my close friends and even by those not so close too, these things, perhaps unknowingly, also me helped me to chase the dream.
Where do you source the leathers&soles?
About soles: Joh. Rendenback lederfabrike Jr, I think they are one of the best in the world and they have always been very attentive to the needs of a small shoemaker like me. In addition to providing me things, they always have told me when they were testing new materials, and this is always very rewarding addition that interests me.
On leather, depending on the type that I’m looking’s for, I’m lucky to have the complicity of two excellent tanneries of Catalonia (Igualada and Banyoles), a very great box-calf leather, who are suppliers of one of major brands using traditional shoemaking in France and Europe. Also I have the good fortune to provide me with box-calf from Du Puy, Paris, through a provider from Barcelona.
What’s the most difficult part of your job?
Having to combine being a manager and time with all the aspects of the work and dedication that are involved in being a shoemaker.
What’s the most satisfying part of your job?
The possibility to share with other trades the creation of a shoe, as is the last maker, the soul of the shoe. I’m seeking to learn some part of this old trade too…And the power to create with your own hands from the physical boundaries of an object to a shoe itself, discovering the greatness of creativity in design and being able to create with style and personality using the technique of craftsmanship with neatness and honesty.
What shoe style do you prefer the most?
Any shoe made with and from the heart. Personally I love the Italian, stylish, elongated lasts, but also austere designs, timeless, closest to the English style cuts.
To be continued …